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Quote for the week:

  Crabgrass can grow on bowling balls in airless rooms,

and there is no known way to kill it that does not involve nuclear weapons. 

~Dave Barry

Quote for the week:

There is nothing in which the birds differ more from man
than the way in which they can build
and yet leave a landscape as it was before.

Robert Lynd

Question: We want to start a strawberry patch in our garden – can you tell us how to begin?

Site preparation should begin at least one year before planting. This is the best time to control perennial weeds since removing them after planting is extremely difficult. Strawberry plants should be planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be thoroughly worked. Do not work the soil if it is wet. Try to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or during the late afternoon. Set the strawberry plant in the soil so that the soil is just covering the tops of the roots. Do not cover the crown. After four or five weeks, the plants will produce runners and new plants.

Properly stored plants may be planted as late as mid-June if soil moisture is good and irrigation is available. Strawberries planted late will not do as well the first season compared to stock planted earlier.

June bearing or spring bearing, everbearing and day neutral are the three types of strawberries grown in Wisconsin. Fruits of day neutral plants and everbearers are usually smaller than June-bearers fruit. June bearing strawberries produce a crop during a two-to-three week period in the spring. They will produce flowers, fruits and runners and are classified into early, mid-season and late varieties. Everbearing strawberries produce three periods of flowers and fruit during the spring, summer and fall. They do not produce many runners. Day neutral strawberries will produce fruit throughout the growing season. These strawberries produce just a few runners.

Everbearing and day neutral strawberries are great for gardeners who have limited space. They can also be used as an edging plant or a groundcover.

Strawberry varieties should be selected on the basis of dessert quality; preserving quality; disease resistance and season of maturation.

Strawberries are among the most widely grown fruit in the home garden. They prefer a well drained soil, high in organic matter. They need full sun for the highest yields, at least 6 hours per day. Do not plant strawberries where peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes have been grown. These plants could harbor verticillium wilt, a serious strawberry disease. Strawberries need about one inch of water per week during the growing season.

During the first growing season, remove flowers of June-bearing strawberries as soon as they appear. Removing the flowers promotes root and runner development thereby insuring a large crop the following year. For everbearing and day-neutral strawberries, remove the flowers until the end of June and then after that date allow the flowers to remain to set fruit for a summer/fall harvest.

Before planting apply one pound per 100 square feet of a 10-10-10 fertilizer and dig into soil at least six to eight inches deep. After the first harvest in the second season strawberries should be fertilized after renovation in July. Water the fertilizer in to get it down to the root zone. This application is made to keep the plants in a vigorous condition and to promote new growth causing the development of more fruit buds. Do not over fertilize. Over-fertilization will cause excessive vegetative growth, reduce yields; increase losses from frost and foliar disease and result in winter injury.

Strawberries are very susceptible to frosts in the spring. Mulches that have covered the plants during the winter months should be removed in the early spring but should be left in the aisles to cover the blossoms in the spring when frost is predicted. Old blankets or sheets can be used for protection against frost. In the fall between mid-November and mid-December before temperatures drop below 20 degrees; apply straw mulch three to four inches deep over the rows. This mulch will protect the plants from cold temperatures that can kill the buds and injure roots and crowns. Remove the mulch in the spring when the strawberry leaves show yellow. Leave some of the mulch around the plants to keep the fruit from soil contact and to conserve soil moisture.

Renovation is an important part of strawberry care. In order to insure good fruit production, June-bearing strawberries grown in the matted row system should be renovated every year right after harvest. A strawberry patch will continue to be productive for three to four years as long as the planting is maintained. The first step in the renovation process is to mow the old foliage with a mower, cutting off the leaves about one inch above the crowns. Rake the leaves and if disease-free, compost or incorporate into the soil. Fertilize with one pound of a 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Narrow the rows to six to twelve inches wide by spading, hoeing or rototilling. Remove all weeds. Thin the plants in the narrowed row to 4 to 6 inches between plants. Water with one inch of water per week to promote growth and to make new runners for next year's crop.

Question: The How to of Hostas

No wonder hostas are one of the most popular perennials.  Hosta plants are more often grown for their foliage than for their flowers. They are very easy, adaptable, and relatively fool-proof.  To know how to grow them successfully, you should know a couple of cultural needs.  We like to plant colorful annuls between them for contrast.  To know how to choose from the many available, and to grow them at their best, here are a few more facts.

When choosing hostas consider their ultimate size, the cost, and what they look like.  Size may be important if you have a small or limited space. Many new introductions can be quite expensive so, unless you are a collector and want the newest, you may choose some similar and much less expensive selections.  Finally, some just may be more appealing to you than others.

If you have dense shade, you might want more variegated ones to help brighten such areas.  Variegation in hosta plants is manifested in a couple of different ways.  Foliage is termed "medio variegated" when the lighter color (white, a lighter green, or yellow) occurs in the center of the leaf.  By contrast, when the lighter color occurs on the edge of their foliage, hosta plants are said to be "marginally variegated.   Keep in mind that many of these will have brighter colors in more light.  The blue-leafed hosta plants should all be grown in full shade.  Most blue hostas have better growth and color in cooler regions.  If you only have full sun, choose selections better suited for high light.  Hosta plants with gold leaves should be planted in full sun to bring out their color fully.  That color can range from a true gold to chartreuse, depending on variety, location in the yard, geographical region, etc.

After blooming, cut off the scape (the stalk that bears the bloom).  Otherwise, nourishment is wasted, traveling to the seed pods (you want it to go, instead, to the crowns of the hostas).

The two main points to growing hostas successfully concern light and water.  As mentioned under choices, leaf color of variegated cultivars may vary with the amount of light.  Often in the north, hostas can be grown in high light if provided plenty of water, otherwise leaves will burn (discoloring and turning brown on edges).

Keep in mind that to look their best, hostas generally need more water than the rain provides in an average year.  This is true especially if growing under trees which take up so much soil moisture.  Hostas need this extra water when they are growing, but not in winter when they are dormant. Heavy and wet soils in winter and spring can lead to crown and root rots.  Brodhead is a great place for growing hosta – they do well in well-drained soil, with plenty of organic matter.  This area has sandy soil and we have access to compost from the City.

Question:   I recently purchased my first home and my question is when shall I fertilize my lawn?  

Avoid early spring fertilizer applications (April) as they stimulate leaf growth at the expense of root growth.   For high-quality turf, an easy way to remember when to fertilize is to use the "holiday schedule", fertilizing around Memorial Day, the Fourth of July, Labor Day, and Halloween.   Low- and medium-quality turf is fertilized less frequently.

Question:   Can you tell me how short you should cut your grass?  

Mowing is the most important factor in keeping a lawn healthy.   There are a few considerations for good mowing technique.   Cutting height and the 1/3 rule.   Keep the lawn mowed to between 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches tall.   Use the lower mowing heights for higher quality lawns and the higher heights for lower input lawns.   Follow the "1/3 rule" for mowing:   never remove more than one-third of the leaf tissue at any one mowing.   For example, if the turf is 4 inches tall, set the mower to cut it no lower than 2-1/2 inches tall.   Removing more than one-third of the leaf tissue at one time makes the turf more susceptible to environmental stresses and pest damage, slows regrowth, and exposes the soil to light, which promotes germination of weeds.

Question:   Can you tell me when it is a good time to use crabgrass preventer?

Crabgrass germinates in late April, early May when the soil temperature at 4" stabilizes at 55 degrees (last weeks average soil temperature at 2" was 45 degrees).   If you don't have a soil thermometer apply your pre-emergent herbicide when the forsythia is blooming.   Usually when the common lilac is in early bloom the first crabgrass is sprouting.   What makes the Brodhead area a crabgrass haven is the sandy soil.   If you apply your herbicide now it is leached out when we have that real warm spell and we get a second flush of crabgrass germinating.   For total control it is best to apply a second application around Memorial Day.

All About Easter Lilies

We can thank the two world wars for most the world production of the Bermuda lily--better known as the Easter lily--in this country.

Native to the Ryukyu islands of southern Japan, this lily was discovered by the famous plant explorer Carl Peter Thunberg in 1777 and sent to England in 1819. Missionaries and sailors further carried it to Bermuda in 1853. Much commercial bulb production was in Bermuda during the late 1800’s, hence the other name for this bulbous plant. When a virus destroyed this crop there in 1898, production moved to Japan where it continued until the outbreak of World War II.

With the outbreak of this war, bulbs were of course scarce so the price increased greatly. The few with bulbs in this country who were growing them more for a hobby began growing “White Gold”, as they were called, for business. World War I also was integral to this bulb production on the southern Oregon coast, as it was the soldier in this war Louis Houghton who first brought a suitcase of these bulbs there to his friends.

This area along the California-Oregon border is often called the “Easter Lily Capital of the World” as it produces about 95 percent of all the bulbs grown in the world for the potted Easter lily market, and virtually all used in this country. After World War II there were about 1,200 commercial bulb growers in this area. Today the 10 growers of the Pacific Bulb Growers Association produce more than 65,000 boxes of bulbs, shipping them to commercial greenhouses in the U.S. and Canada. Almost 600 acres are planted to produce Easter lily bulbs, worth about $7 million a year for these bulbs alone. To help solve bulb production problems, these growers even have their own research station.

Most all Easter lilies are the cultivar (cultivated variety) ‘Nellie White’, selected by a grower and named for his wife. Bulb production begins in the fall, when scales or bulblets are planted. The lily bulb is actually composed of many scales—specialized leaves below ground that store food. These can be separated and planted. Bulblets are mini-bulbs produced along the underground stem which can be removed and planted. Both bulblets and scales will form new bulbs. Each fall bulbs are dug, the largest packed to sell, the smallest planted back to grow another year.

So how did Easter lilies, a plant that naturally blooms in summer in most of this country, become such a symbol of Easter? For this we can thank a woman visiting Bermuda in the 1880s, Ms Thomas Sargent. She loved the flowers blooming naturally in Bermuda in the spring, so brought some bulbs back home to Philadelphia. A local nurseryman there, William Harris, began growing them, forcing them into spring bloom, and selling to other florists. Many began buying this flower for Easter, as they do today, with it symbolizing the Resurrection.

So how are Easter lilies forced or “tricked” into bloom in time for Easter? Once greenhouse growers receive bulbs in the late fall, the bulbs are potted and placed in non-freezing cool temperatures. The bulbs must receive about 1000 hours of such moist cold in order to bloom, although additional light after they sprout can substitute for some cold.

Once the lily bulbs sprout, they are closely monitored by growers in order to time them for Easter. This can be difficult, as Easter can vary from March 22 to April 25. Temperature is used to speed up or slow down the crop. As each plant can respond a bit differently, many plants traditionally have been moved back and forth between warm and cold greenhouses, so are sometimes called a “wheelbarrow crop.” Growers track growth using such techniques as “leaf counting” in which rate of leaf unfolding is recorded.

When buying a lily, look for a plant with flowers in various stages of bloom from buds to open or partially opened flowers. Foliage should be dense, rich green in color, and extend all the way down to the soil line (a good indication of a healthy root system). Look for a well-proportioned plant, one that is about two times as high as the pot. You also should check the flowers, foliage, and buds for signs of yellowing (improper culture), insects, or disease.

At home, keep your lily away from drafts and drying heat sources such as appliances or heating ducts. Bright, indirect light is best with daytime temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees F. Water the plant only when the soil feels dry to the touch, but don’t overwater. To prolong the life of the blossoms, remove the yellow anthers (pollen-bearing pods) found in the center of each flower. If you get this staining pollen on fabrics, don’t rub it off, but remove it with sticky tape.

If you have cats, especially those that like to chew on leaves, keep your lily away from them. Any part of this lily, as many of its relatives, can cause kidney failure in cats. Eating even one leaf can be fatal to a cat, starting with them stopping eating, vomiting, and becoming lethargic. If you think a cat has eaten a leaf, call a veterinarian immediately as prompt treatment often can be successful.

How to Grow a Beautiful Lawn

A beautiful lawn is not maintained year after year without some effort. So, before you decide to put in a new lawn, consider whether or not it is worth the time and expense required to keep it beautiful. A lawn can be as low maintenance as mowing whatever grows and letting nature do the rest. At the other end of the spectrum is the lawn that needs monthly fertilization and regular watering. If the lawn is watered and fertilized regularly, it will need more mowing and dethatching. The maintenance required for these two types of lawns is vastly different.

The types of grass selected, the desired lawn quality, and the site determine the maintenance level of the lawn. But be aware that some landscape features are incompatible. For instance, you can have a very shady landscape or a high quality lawn, but not both. Grass does not grow well in the shade. A good lawn is possible when you plant a proper mix of grasses. Most lawns are combinations of Kentucky bluegrass, creeping red fescue, and perennial ryegrass. A mixture of three different grass species provides the maximum amount of pest resistance and environmental adaptability. Kentucky bluegrass is the most common lawn grass. Blends of Kentucky bluegrass cultivars can provide a very high quality lawn, but such lawns usually require above average maintenance levels. The spreading growth habit helps fill in bare spots, but the grass goes dormant during hot, dry, summer weather.

Creeping red fescue has thread-like leaves and is the most shade-tolerant of lawn grasses. This does not mean the grass grows only in shade or that it will tolerate total shade. It grows well in full sun and, in fact, requires some sun during the day.Only named cultivars of perennial ryegrass should be used in lawns. Common perennial ryegrass often dies during the winter and does not mow well. A fairly adaptable mix consists of 50 percent creeping red fescue, 30 percent Kentucky bluegrass, and 20 percent named perennial ryegrass. This mix, along with similar mixes, will provide a good quality lawn suitable for sun or partial shade that requires below average to average care. Try to avoid "problem grasses" such as annual ryegrass that is often sold as the major component of some very low priced grass seed. It will die out during the winter so essentially forms a lawn that lasts for a single season. Rough bluegrass is often found in shady grass mixes. It has a light green color and does not blend well with other lawn type grasses. It does, however, do well in moist, shaded sites.

Tall fescue is one of the two worst lawn weeds. Yet seed is available in most stores. The grass blades always seem to stay taller than the rest of the lawn. No selective control exists for this grass as the chemicals that kill tall fescue also kill other lawn grasses. Pure stands of this wear-tolerant grass are often used on playgrounds or roadsides. Finally, for sloping areas, you may want to purchase "conservation mix." This mix contains deep-rooted grasses that will aid in erosion control and prevent heavy rains from washing away soil on the slope.)

Question:   Can you tell me when is the best time to apply spray - dust and fertilizers?

Be wary of the "chemical fix".   When the season changes, you can almost feel it in the air - the urge to get out and do something in the yard.   Unfortunately, what many people end up doing sometimes leads to more harm than good.   Fertilizing without a soil test when the lawn really doesn't need it, using weed killers at the wrong time of year, spraying with insecticides "just to be on the safe side," even watering a little bit every day..are all wasteful and environmentally damaging practices.

Without thinking about it, some homeowners reach first for the "solution" that should be a last resort.   The serious warning labels on many pesticide products clearly indicate the hazards to songbirds, aquatic life, and humans.   In a sense, using such chemicals without proper diagnosis of the problem and careful application procedures is no different than a doctor prescribing medicine with potentially serious side effects for a condition that proper diet and moderate exercise could cure.   Resist the urge for a quick chemical fix.

Question:   I would like to plant an asparagus patch - can you tell me how to maintain this?  

Plant healthy, vigorous, one-year-old asparagus crowns or transplants in early spring.   Either use transplants or purchase one-year-old crowns.   Dig a 6- to 8- inch deep trench and place the crowns 18 to 24 inches apart in rows that are 3 feet apart.   Cover with 2 inches of soil and gradually fill in the remainder of the trench throughout the growing season.   Be sure to plant asparagus on well-drained soil.   Harvest asparagus beginning the third growing season, when spears are well developed but the tips haven't begun to open.   Pick spears that are about 6 to 8 inches tall and have a diameter approximately the size of your index finger.   Cut or break the spear near the soil.   Avoid harvesting skinny, woody spears.

Usually the asparagus harvest lasts for about two weeks the first year, and increases by about a week each year until the harvest last six weeks.   Stop harvesting when most spears are skinny.

I was wondering if you could tell me how to get rid of my problem with moss in my yard and garden?

Most mosses prefer damp, shaded areas, but a few (e.g. the silvery thread moss) can tolerate dry conditions and are often found in sunny areas. Mosses can only develop in bare areas. They do not kill turf, but merely grow where turf is not living. Often the very conditions that result in loss of turf (poor drainage, shade) are ideal for mosses. Moss is not the problem, it is an indicator of a problem.

The most effective, long-term control for moss is to change the environment to make it less suitable for moss and more suitable for turfgrass or gardens. First, make sure the site has adequate drainage. Low-lying areas can be built up by adding soil. Adding a slope to the affected area can help drain water away. Compacted soils should be core aerated to loosen the soil and encourage drainage, or add compost to the garden area. Reduce irrigation time or frequency to allow the soil surface to dry. Have a soil test performed to ensure that your turf has adequate levels of nutrients such as phosphorus and potassium. Most turf grown in the shade requires less nitrogen than turf grown in full sun. Therefore, use a lower rate of nitrogen when you fertilize shaded turf (equal to about ½ lb. nitrogen per 1000 square feet). Do not cut turf too short. Plant turf species best adapted for shade such as a fine fescue, rough bluegrass, or supina bluegrass. Finally, if the site is excessively shaded you may want to consider pruning or removing surrounding shrubs, tree branches, or entire trees to increase air movement and sunlight.

You can purchase products for moss control from garden centers and retail outlets. These products usually contain iron sulfate (FeSO 4 ), potassium sulfate, or similar chemicals. Lime is usually not effective. The effects of these products are short-lived though, and long-term control requires changing the environment.

I have heard that yards that have a walnut tree are doomed for failure because of the toxicity of the tree to the surrounding area. Is this true? Our yard had a walnut tree, which was cut down years ago. Is there any hope that we could ever grow a lawn or garden in that area?

Black walnut trees can be attractive trees in the landscape. Walnuts are commonly found all over in Brodhead. This tree is popular with squirrels and wildlife as a food source. As you may or may not know, however, the black walnut can also be toxic to certain plants growing in the vicinity.

Having a walnut tree in your yard certainly does not mean the landscape will be barren. We have six walnut trees in our yard and haven't had any problems with landscaping. But if problems have occurred for tomatoes or other sensitive plants near a walnut, the tree is in fact the likely source of the problem.

Black walnuts contain a chemical known as juglone. Juglone occurs in all parts of the plant, but is most concentrated in the buds, nut hulls, and roots. Lesser amounts are found in the leaves and stems. Juglone does not move much in the soil. Greatest quantities are found in the area immediately under the walnut tree, where roots are concentrated and decaying nut hulls and leaves accumulate.

Problems occur for sensitive plants primarily when these plants are growing in the root zone area of the black walnut. This is known as allelopathy, or one plant producing a substance that affects growth of another. Affected plants may vary in symptoms from the toxicity. Symptoms range from stunting, yellowing, partial to total wilting, to complete death. You can reduce allelopathic effects by regular clean up of all fallen leaves and fruit from the black walnut tree, keeping debris away from desired landscape plants. Also, maintaining high organic matter levels in the soil is helpful because organic matter encourages healthy soil microbial populations that can metabolize toxins. Even if the tree is removed, as long as the roots remain in the soil problems could continue for sensitive plants.

Tomatoes and potatoes are two of the popular plants sensitive to juglone. Other species that may be affected include alfalfa, some apple varieties, grapes, rhododendron, white pine, white birch, eggplant, pepper, lilac, cotoneaster, and privet, among others.

Some plants are known not to be affected by juglone. Among the plants on this list are Kentucky bluegrass, forsythia, most maples, pachysandra, most viburnums, ferns, daffodils, daylily, winged euonymus, coral bells, clematis, phlox, sedum, sunflower, yarrow, primrose, daylily, hosta, geraniums, snap beans, corn, and onions to name a few.

The best advice when gardening near black walnuts or butternut is to use caution. If possible, locate gardens or landscape beds away from the root zone of the tree or plant tolerant vine ground cover and flowers. We have well-drained soils here in Brodhead and that helps with fewer toxicity problems than poorly drained soils. Avoid mulching garden areas with walnut leaves or nut husks. Root barriers to prevent walnut roots from advancing into garden areas may be helpful.

We just bought our dream home in the country. We spent hours working on our lawn last year and it was looking great. I have noticed after the snow melted this spring we have extensive mole damage - both to the yard and small shrubs. Is there anything we can do?

Moles are often blamed for the destruction of bulbs, seeds, garden plants, and lawns. In fact, moles rarely consume plants or plant parts, though they will occasionally take a few seeds. They dig their tunnels in search of earthworms, grubs, and other small creatures of the soil.

During the winter months, moles are not a problem. The shallow, winding trails that appear in your lawn when the snow melts are the work of meadow voles, not moles.

Voles, or meadow mice as they are often called, belong to the rodent group. They are heavyset, grayish-brown rodents with tiny ears, dark eyes, and a relatively short tail. Populations may periodically explode (usually about once every 4 years) and reach several hundred mice per acre in good, grassy habitats. This is a much higher density than thirteen-lined ground squirrels which typically infest an area at levels of 2-8 per acre and the relatively solitary moles and gophers. Unlike the other small mammal pests, voles do not burrow extensively underground.

Much of the damage caused by voles results from their girdling the bark from trees and shrubs. Damage is most severe in winter when food supplies dwindle and the voles are protected from predators while burrowing beneath the snow. Thin-barked trees are the preferred food of voles. Voles can also cause damage to turf by clipping the grass close to the roots when they construct surface runways beneath the snow. Turf damage usually isn't as bad as it appears. Rake away the dead grass in spring and surrounding grass will quickly fill in the area. Frequent mowing and maintaining a grass-free area around young trees will reduce damage and destroy hiding places.

Placing ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth around the base of young trees will physically exclude voles from feeding on the plants. Be sure to submerge the hardware cloth at least 2-3 inches beneath the ground to prevent voles from burrowing under. It should extend at least 18 inches above ground as well to prevent damage higher up the trunk during the winter when snow cover can afford the voles access higher up on the trunk of the tree.

Trapping is an effective way to eliminate voles in small areas. Mouse-size snap traps baited with peanut butter, oatmeal, or apple slices placed perpendicular to the runways will reduce vole populations in small areas. The best time to set such traps is in mid-October through mid-November before snow covers the ground. This may be impractical in some situations because of the presence of children. However, traps may be placed along building foundations behind boards or boxes or boxes leaning against the building to minimize problems with children and other animals.

My grapevines are 6 years old. I had a real good crop 2 years go but hardly any grapes last year. I fertilize regularly and I am not sure what went wrong?

There are many reasons why grapevines fail to bear fruit; spring frosts, winter cold injury, age of vines, too little pruning, or incorrect pruning.

From the age of your vines you probably have the #1 new grape growers problem. Five years ago you planted these little twigs on this big trellis - second year they might have made it to the top, third year you are in heaven - you have grapes! This is when your problems started. Bigger isn't better.

Many gardeners leave too many canes (and therefore too many buds) on grapevines. Too much vegetative growth limits the resources available for fruit growth. With too much cane growth the lower and inner parts of the vine are shaded.

While proper pruning and training might seem excessive to the novice, growers should yearly trim all but a fraction of the several hundred buds on a mature healthy grapevine to leave a proper balance of fruiting wood to vine growth for maximum production of high quality fruit.

Leaving all of the buds on the vine lets the plant overproduce; the vine expends most of its energy in excessive vegetative growth. Unpruned grapevines produce small berries, have delayed fruit ripening, and produce weak unproductive wood for the following season.

For vigorous American grapes, 50 to 60 buds left will usually produce crops of 16 to 20 pounds per vine or 5 to 6 tons of fruit per acre.

For detailed pruning and arbor construction please check Bulletin A1656 available at your local county extension office.

Quote for the week:

  Crabgrass can grow on bowling balls in airless rooms,

and there is no known way to kill it that does not involve nuclear weapons. 

~Dave Barry

Fragrance of Lilacs is in the Air

During the month of May the fragrance of lilacs is in the air.  Lilacs originated in Europe and Asia, and were brought to America in the mid 1700’s.  They have long been a garden favorite.  Before deciding what lilac cultivar you would like to plant, there are some factors to consider.

            Lilacs come in a range of color, with lavender being the most common.  Although color choice is often our focus, it is best to first consider the plant size.  Lilacs come in many sizes and shapes and thus offer a wide variety of landscape uses.  Small lilacs can be used as foundation plants near your home.  These dwarf cultivars mature to a height and width of 4-6 feet.  The larger varieties offer great privacy as a shrub border.  These lilacs can grow 12 feet tall and 10 feet wide.  They do this by sending up suckers which is new root growth.   

            The bloom period for lilacs ranges from 7 to 14 days.  The choice in cultivars provides for an early, midseason, and late bloom.  By planting a variety of species it is possible to extend the flowering period to 5 or 6 weeks.  It is also a good idea to consider the plant’s ornamental features.  Some plants have small, fine textured leaves while others may have variegated leaves.  This helps make the lilac a beautiful specimen plant that provides beauty beyond the bloom period.  Some species even provide good fall color. 

            Select a sunny site to plant your lilac, one that will provide at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day.  This is important for setting flower buds for the spring bloom.  The planting area should have good drainage.  This can be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost, into the planting hole.  Lilacs need to be watered two or three times weekly for the first month and then provided about an inch of water once a week throughout the remainder of the growing season.  This will help the plant get well established.  Mulching around the base of the plant also helps retain moisture and keeps plant roots cool. 

            Pruning techniques are important in ensuring spring bloom.  Newly planted lilacs will not need much pruning for the first 2 to 3 years.  Pruning recommendations will depend on the plant’s bloom period, growth pattern, and location.  Ideally pruning should be done in March when the plant is still dormant.  During this time of year it is easier to see what you are cutting out, as well as not having to be concerned about insect and disease activity.  The drawback to pruning at this time is that some flowers will be sacrificed.  The next best time to prune your lilac would be right after flowering but before the plant sets flower buds for next year’s bloom. This simply means to try to get the pruning done within a week or two from the end of the flowering period.

            Lilacs grow well in our Wisconsin climate.  It is a flowering shrub that adds beauty and fragrance to your landscape.

Living with Bare Tree Roots

You may be frustrated by the surface roots found at the base of your trees.  They can make it difficult to grow and mow grass.  There are some solutions that will allow you and your tree to coexist while maintaining an attractive landscape.

Always leave surface roots in place.  Surface roots are a natural and important part of a tree's development.  They provide mechanical support as well as nutrient and water uptake for the tree.  Some species naturally produce more surface roots than others.  Other species develop surface roots due to compacted soils or improper watering.  All trees grow roots near the soil surface, not deep into the ground like a carrot.  The majority of tree roots can be found in the top 6 - 12 inches of the soil.  They also extend in all directions, for more than two times the height of the tree.

Cutting roots creates entryways for harmful insects and diseases.  Burying roots interferes with important root functions.  Even if the tree survives the treatment, it is only a temporary solution.  Since tree roots grow faster on the top than below, they will soon resurface.

Mulches and ground covers are two alternative treatments that can be used to deal with surface roots.

Mulches are the best solution.  A 3 - 4-inch layer of wood chips or shredded bark can be used to eliminate the need for maintaining grass near the surface roots.  Mulching also creates a better growing environment for your trees.  Best of all, it keeps weed whips and lawn mowers away from the trunk of the tree.  When this equipment hits the tree, it damages the trunk - creating entry ways for diseases and insects.  The larger the mulch area, the better for the tree.  Keep mulch away from the trunk. Do not use stone or gravel as a mulch.

Start by eliminating the existing grass.   Mechanical grass removal must be done carefully to avoid injuring the existing roots.  Total vegetation killers containing the active ingredient glyphosate, such as Roundup or Kleenup, can be used to kill the grass.  These kill the leaves as well as the roots.  Products which contain cacadylic acid kill only the leaves.  Be sure to read and follow all label directions carefully when using any pesticide.

Planting perennial ground covers is another attractive way to deal with surface roots.  The plants must be shade tolerant and able to compete with vigorous tree roots.  These include Goutweed, Bugleweed, Lady's Mantle, European Ginger, Chinese Astilbe, Bergenia, Siberian Bugloss, Lily-of-the-Valley, Sweet Woodruff, Perennial Geranium, Daylily, Hosta, Dead Nettle, Forget-me-not, Japanese Spurge or Pachysandra, Lungwort, and Periwinkle.

Do not mound up soil over the roots to create a raised bed planter.  Prepare the planting site as for mulching.  Minimize root damage by plug planting. Dig small holes, only as large as needed for planting.  Mulch with wood chips, shredded leaves, cocoa bean and rice hulls or other organic material. This will reduce weeds, conserve moisture and improve the soil for both the trees and ground cover.

Hosta Virus X

Many hostas are turning up that are infected with a virus called Hosta Virus X (HVX).  The most commonly seen ones are plants of 'Gold Standard', 'Striptease', and 'Sum and Substance', but other common varieties are being reported infected in large numbers.  While this disease does not kill plants, its primary danger lies in its proven ability to spread.  Because symptoms may take years to show after infection, HVX has infected tens of thousands of plants and is at epidemic levels around the world.  If a batch of hostas contains any individual plants that show HVX symptoms, the whole batch is infected and should be destroyed. 

New information about HVX from the conclusion of a study by Dr. Ben Lockhart indicates that it is common for the virus to not cause visible symptoms for three or more years after infection.  Reports are coming in about plants that were purchased 3-4 years ago that this year displayed symptoms for the first time.  Often an infected batch of plants will only contain a small number of plants showing symptoms, but because of the long period before symptoms are expressed all plants in the batch must be considered infected.  It has also been confirmed that plants that have been tissue-cultured can contain the virus if the original plant put into culture was infected.  Tissue culture itself does not guarantee clean plants.

The most commonly seen symptoms are found in gold and gold-centered plants. It is generally random green mottling, almost always accompanied by mottling that follows the veins.  It often has the appearance of ink on blotting paper soaking out from the line along the vein.  Other symptoms may also show, and they are still trying to get a clear idea of what the virus looks like in plants with green leaves and green centers.  Dr. Lockhart says there may be a variety of symptoms with very different appearances.  Because of this, any plants showing signs of any viral infection should be immediately disposed of. 

Although specific research has not been completed yet on how it is spread, there is good reason to assume that it cannot be spread by insects, fungi, nematodes, or pollen.  Limited research has indicated it may infect plants other than hostas, but it has not been observed in other plants at this time.  Transmission through seed is not considered very likely, but not ruled out.  The primary method of infecting plants is moving fresh sap from one plant to another.  There are any number of ways to do this, including the cutting of rhizomes, leaves, or scapes, lawn mowers and string trimmers, keeping plants with fresh cuts in contact with each other, and possibly animals feeding on leaves.  

In the garden, immediately burn or place in trash to be removed from property any plants which show symptoms of HVX.  If healthy-appearing plants came from batches which included plants showing symptoms discard those too rather than wait to see if symptoms appear.  Watch carefully for symptoms among other plants, especially those known to have been sold with HVX infection, and discard any that show symptoms.  Clean hands and tools before touching other plants after handling infected plants.  Do not under any circumstances keep these plants around, even if they appear to have been "cured".  Once infected, a hosta has HVX for life and can only spread it to healthy plants.  This is a contagious disease that has no cure and should be treated with care.  All parts of an infected plant should be considered infected with the virus and able to spread it to other plants.  Begin practicing the habit of sterilizing tools or washing hands after getting hosta sap on them before touching other hostas.  Keep string trimmers and lawn mowers away from hosta leaves also.

Question:   What shall I do for soil that grows annuals and perennials too long and leggy, with weak stems?  

My guess is you are using your lawn fertilizer that is formulated for your garden.    Your problem is too much nitrogen in the soil and not enough phosphorus and potassium.   Use a 0-10-10 fertilizer, or something similar, 1 pounds per 100 square feet for one or two applications.   Excess nitrogen usually disappears rapidly.

Question:   We live out in Decatur and have several pine trees in our yard.   We cleared a few of these from our yard and have needles from adjacent trees.   Should this make additional liming or other treatment advisable?

Pine needles produce acidity, hence constant use of lime may be required to counteract this condition.   Best thing to do is have a soil test taken.

Question:   Our soil is very sandy and is acidic.   What can we do so we can grow a vegetable garden?  

Increase the organic content of the soil by incorporating compost, farm manures, or other nonacid materials such as leaves, straw, plant refuse, or nonacid peat.   Apply lime as needed to modify the acidity. Any vegetable will grow in sandy soil if fertilized frequently.   Apply fertilizer high in phosphorus and potash.

How do I Prune Roses?

Prune in early spring and your rose can produce an abundance of flowers. Roses are among the easiest flowering shrubs to grow. No prima donnas, they can cling to life long after lesser plants give up.   They need proper care such as watering, fertilizing, pest control, and pruning.  Prune roses in early spring when buds when to swell.  Pruning has four main goals: remove dead twigs and branches; remove weak, damaged, and useless branches; open the plant to improve air circulation; and create an attractive shape. 

Nearly all roses are well equipped with sharp thorns, and some are very thorny. First of all, you need a pair of heavy leather gloves, preferably long enough to protect your arms. The next essential is hand shears. We prefer the scissors type over the anvil type for their clean, sharp cuts. Use shears to cut twigs, side branches, and main branches up to about 1/4 inch in diameter.  If you have older plants with many thick stems at the base, you'll also need a small pruning saw or loppers, or both.   Make cuts just above outward-facing buds. Cut about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud at a 45-degree angle. To prevent the entrance of cane borers, cover pruning cuts with wax, a thumbtack, or pruning seal (white glue will work) on the pruning cuts to seal them. Cutting above an outward-facing bud forces growth up and away from the center of the plant, improving air circulation, which reduces pest problems.   Cut back to live tissue.   After you cut, examine the pithy tissue in the center. Is it white and healthy clear through? If not, cut back farther.

Brown and shriveled canes stand out like sore thumbs. Cut them to the base, using a saw if necessary. Suckers are vigorous canes growing from the rootstock below the graft union on grafted roses. Cut these off to the main stem, even if you have to dig away some soil to get to them. The preceding guidelines would allow you to do a pretty good job of pruning any rose. But knowing the idiosyncrasies of the different kinds of roses also helps.

Hybrid teas and grandifloras.  Keep the thickest green canes evenly spaced around the bush. Prune out all canes with diameters less than a pencil width and old, brown canes that tend to be less productive. A new hybrid tea should have three to five canes left. Grandifloras and other older hybrid teas can support six to eight canes. Later in the season you'll be pruning again when you're make bouquets for indoors. Cut so that you've a long enough stem for a vase but don't remove too many leaves. Try to leave at least two 5-leaflet leaves on the remaining stem. Therefore the ideal place to cut is just above an outward growing bud and/or the uppermost 5-leaflet leaf.

Floribundas and polyanthas. Leave six to eight main canes, and remove most of the twiggy growth in the center of the bush. Compared to hybrid teas and grandifloras, leave more minor branches, especially toward the top of the plant. Prune the remaining canes to give the plant a rounded shape.

Climbing roses. Don't prune any climber, except to remove dead or broken branches, for two or three years. That's enough time for the plant to develop strong branches that can produce flowers for many years. On established plants, prune dead or damaged branches to the base. Train main branches to grow as horizontally as possible. How you do this varies with your situation. Imagine the arching canes of a climbing rose along a split-rail fence; canes arching in this fashion produce many more flowers than canes growing straight up. The two most common types of climbing roses are the naturally vigorous mutations (sports) of hybrid teas, grandifloras, and floribundas, and those simply called "large-flowered climbers." Both types produce flowers on long-lived side branches (laterals) off the main canes. Flowers develop on the side branches. In late winter or early spring, shorten those laterals to about 6 inches.

Miniatures. Some need no regular pruning at all. If you have a few plants indoors, use narrow-bladed pruning shears (or scissors) to prune and shape. For miniatures used as landscape plants, use hedge shears to maintain size. 

All questions were answered using the University-Extension Master Gardener Handbook.

Question:  How do I arrange plants in a new perennial garden? 

Make lists of the plants you intend to use, dividing them according to height, color, and blooming season.  Making a plan on paper is helpful, but you can do quite well just working with the lists.  Place the tall plants in the background, those of medium height in the midsection of the garden, and those of low height in the foreground.  Since there will be some variation in heights and habits of growth among the three, the final effect of this arrangement will not be frigid.  Even so, it is a good idea to drift some tall plants and some low plants toward the center of the garden.  For maximum effect, group three to five plants of one kind together, except for such large, accent plants.

Question:  I would like to start a herb garden, can you tell me which are annuals and which are perennials? 

The annual herbs most widely used are anise, basil, dill, summer savory, fennel, and coriander.  The perennial herbs include chives, thyme, lovage, lavender, lemon-balm, winter savory, marjoram, sage, mint, tarragon, horse-radish, and bee balm.  Parsley, angelica, and caraway are technically biennials, but are grown as annuals.  All of these grow in full sun and like a well-drained garden soil.  Sow annuals as early in the spring as the weather permits, either in rows or broadcast.

Question:   We would like to start a vegetable garden this year.   How do you recommend killing out the grasses that are in the area we want to put a garden?   Is Round-Up safe to use?  

Round-Up - which is a trade name for glyphosate herbicide, which is a non-selective, non-residual herbicide (it's green, you spray it, it's dead).   Round-Up has been on the market a long time and is well tested, and will work great for your application.   As with all chemicals, follow the label directions.

Question:   Is there a weed spray for my strawberry bed?  

Commercial growers use a weed spray but it is only available to licensed spray applicators. If it is grasses growing above the strawberries a hand wick applicator with Round-up will work, being careful not to touch the plants.   A good regiment of weeding - before the weeds flower and go to seed followed up with mulching your rows will give you the best long-term results.

Garden Pests

Birds and mammals can damage several vegetable crops - including bean, cabbage, lettuce, pea, sweet corn, tomato, and Swiss chard.

Red-winged blackbirds and common grackles damage corn by pulling sprouting seeds or eating kernels before they are ripe.   Keep these birds away by using flashing aluminum discs or strips hung on strings or wires supported by high stakes.

Robins and other fruit-eating birds damage berries and dwarf fruit.   Use commercial plastic netting to exclude these birds from trees and berry patches.

Cottontail rabbits eat beans, cabbage, Swiss chard and other vegetables.   Keeps these garden pests out with a low fence of 1-inch mesh chicken wire, about 18 to 24 inches high.   Bury the bottom of the wire or place it in close contact with the ground to prevent animals from burrowing or forcing their way under.   You can also capture rabbits easily in wire live-traps and remove them from the area, especially during winter.

Ground squirrels or striped gophers may feed on tomatoes.   Trap these animals with a wooden-base, snap-type, rat trap baited with peanut butter and placed near their burrow, or you can shoot them in areas where the use of firearms is permitted.   You can also fore them from their burrows with water.

Woodchucks often feed on several vegetables in rural gardens, but they are protected in Wisconsin.   Obtain permission to control woodchucks from your local DNR conservation warden.   Control methods include trapping with steel traps or shooting.

Raccoons are a common garden problem.   They are especially damaging to sweet corn and are difficult to control.   Live trap in suitable box traps and move the raccoons to other areas, or exclude them with a double-wire electric fence.   The first wire should be 5 inches above the ground and the second 10 inches above the ground.

Rats sometimes invade gardens, too.   Eliminate their living quarters and use an anti-coagulant rat poison to control them.

Deer are a serious problem in a variety of crops, but is difficult to control them.   Electric fences, repellents and scare devices may help somewhat.

Question: I have a birch tree that is dying from the top down - is this caused by winter damage?

The usual first sign of attack of a bronze birch borer (Agrilus anxius Gory) is a thinning or die back of branches in the upper third of the tree. Leaves on infested branches may be unusually small or may show browning along the edges in May or June. This borer is a serious pest of birch trees in the Midwest . It can severely injure or kill most birch species; European white birch varieties are particularly susceptible. Larvae cause the damage by feeding under the bark and girdling the branches. Girdling prevents movement of food and water to tissues above the attack site. Extensive feeding may kill the branch by July or August.

Over time, attacks progress downward to lower branches and the trunk. Typically, borers kill trees in 3-4 years. Trees planted in very poor sites or planted in borer-infested areas may die in 1 year.

Like most wood-boring beetles, the bronze birch borer is really a secondary problem. It usually attacks trees under stress or in a weakened condition because of drought, disease, nutrient deficiency, construction injury, or excessive exposure to the sun. Planting birch in a poor location is the most common reason for problems with bronze birch borer in Wisconsin . Vigorous healthy trees, planted in favorable surroundings are less attractive to the borer and more likely to survive an attack.

Try to keep trees healthy. Because birches have a shallow root system, water them during droughty periods or if they are growing on light soil. It also helps to keep the soil around the birch cool by planting low-growing bushes or shrubs. Fertilize helps trees withstand light infestations and fight off borer attacks.

Bronze birch borers are often an ongoing problem. Borer damage means environmental stresses or other factors have made trees susceptible to attack in the past. Therefore, future attacks are possible.

If more than a third of the tree has died back, saving the tree will be difficult. Commercial arborists have rescued some infested trees using a combination of tactics. Consultation with an arborist may be helpful.

To prevent the breeding and spread of adult bronze birch borers, remove or destroy dead and dying trees. Use all birch firewood before the next spring.

Lightly infested trees often return to full health with a regular preventive insecticide program. Two insecticides are available to homeowners and professional applicators: Permethrin and Imidacloprid.

Permethrin acts as a chemical barrier that kills young larvae as they try to tunnel into the bark. It must be in place before the adults lay eggs. Because eggs are laid throughout the late spring and summer; spray three times - about May 20, June 15, and July 15 th . Infested branches and trunk must be thoroughly sprayed. You may need a commercial arborist to help treat large trees.

Can you tell me how to get rid of the gophers that I have in my yard?

I have fond memories in my childhood of drowning out gophers at the school grounds. We would pull wagons full of water and dump that down holes then chase them all over the football field with fishing nets! Found out a short time later that they weren't gophers after all.

The gopher, also called a pocket gopher, is a burrowing rodent that ranges from 6-12" long at maturity. It has a large head and robust upper body, which are necessary for excavating burrow.

Gophers can be distinguished from moles by their brown fur and robust bodies with powerful forelegs and long claws. Unlike moles, gophers are rodents with large chisel-like teeth, which they use to excavate their tunnels. These teeth can grow up to 14 inches per year. A reversible, fur-lined, external "pocket" in their cheeks used to carry food is where the common name "pocket gopher" is derived.

After inspecting your yard you have the same thing that I chased years ago which is the thirteen-lined ground squirrel. This is a common small mammal in Wisconsin . The damage caused by this species to turf and crops can be of economic significance as well as a considerable nuisance around homes and gardens. Control efforts are sometimes directed at the wrong animal because the thirteen-lined ground squirrel is often called a "gopher" or "mole". True gophers do inhabit western Wisconsin but their control is entirely different.

The thirteen-lined ground squirrel is a small burrowing rodent belonging to the squirrel family (Sciuridae). It is 4-1/2 to 6-1/2 inches long, not counting its 2-1/2-5-1/4" tail. They are brown with a whitish belly and 13 alternating light and dark stripes or rows of spots running the full length of the back.

A thirteen-lined ground squirrel closely resembles a chipmunk in size and shape. But these two species can be distinguished easily. A thirteen-lined ground squirrel always carries its tail straight out behind it when running. A chipmunk holds its tail upright. Chipmunks also have a stripe extending through the eye area.

Any control measure implemented must be persistent since ground squirrels will readily re-infest an area from surrounding areas. Control should be initiated in the spring as soon as ground squirrels are apparent, before litters are born.

The thirteen-lined ground squirrel is a true hibernator. It enters its burrow in October and emerges in late March or April. Ground squirrels breed in early spring and give birth in May after a gestation period of 28 days. Average liter size is 7-10. The young quickly become independent and are capable of leaving their natal burrow at six weeks of age. While active during the summer months, ground squirrels are omnivorous and have a diet consisting of seeds, roots, and insects. They can be particularly disruptive in flowerbeds when they dig up newly planted seeds.

Unlike moles and gophers, thirteen-lined ground squirrels are not easily excluded from a site with the use of fencing.

Flooding the burrow with a garden hose will flush out the animal from a confined location but may not be practical on the large grassy areas in which many ground squirrels reside.

Snap traps and box traps are very effective in ground squirrel control. Locate the traps near burrows where thirteen-lined ground squirrels have been sighted. Snap-type rat traps are better for trapping adult ground squirrels than the smaller mousetrap. Mousetraps can be used in early summer along with the rat traps to trap the young ground squirrels. Bait the trap with peanut butter, grain, or nuts. Fasten nuts to the trigger to prevent the rodents from removing the bait without being caught in the trap. Check the traps frequently.

In areas where permitted, pellet guns work well to eliminate ground squirrels. It is important to use this alternative only when children are not present.

Rodenticides are inexpensive and effective but are a toxic means of controlling thirteen-lined ground squirrels. Zinc phosphide is registered for rodent control but is very toxic to non-target species and a restricted use pesticide at concentrations >2% which require the applicator to be certified. Anticoagulants are less harmful to non-target species particularly when the baits are placed inside the burrow. There are several varieties available at local coops or garden centers.

What are the benefits of wood mulch?

Wood mulch is typically available as chipped wood, or shredded or chunked bark, and can contribute to tree health in many ways. Mulch comes in bag or bulk, or is available at no cost from your compost center. When high quality, composted mulches are applied two to four inches deep in a ring three to six feet in diameter (or greater) from the trunk of a tree, mulch can help preserve moisture, control weeds, limit damage to the trunk from mowers and string trimmers and moderate the soil temperature. Use four inches of mulch when soils are light and well-drained, as we have in Brodhead, and two inches of mulch on heavier, clay soils.

Improper application of mulch can lead to problems. Piling wood mulch up against the trunk of a tree can keep the bark underneath excessively wet. This wetness can contribute to bark decay. In addition, use of thick mulch layers (greater than four inches) can lead to overly wet soils that are favorable for development of root rots (see University of Wisconsin Garden Facts X1070). To avoid these problems, make sure mulch is applied at least one to two inches away from the trunk of the tree and that the mulch layer is the appropriate thickness for the soil type in your landscape (see above).

The reason that we do not use wood mulch in our garden is that harbors or attracts insects. Insects such as earwigs, which is our number one problem, (see UW-Extension bulletin A3640), centipedes (see University of Wisconsin Garden Facts X1113), millipedes (see University of Wisconsin Garden Facts X1108) and sowbugs (see University of Wisconsin Garden Facts X1110) can feed on decaying organic matter in mulches. While these insects are often only nuisances, earwigs can feed on and cause damage to a variety of ornamentals, particularly to flowering plants and hostas. If mulch is used near entrances to a home or around basement windows, these unwanted insects may get inside.

The problem with most free wood chips that you may get from the City of Brodhead compost pile is that they may come from many sources, including trees and shrubs that have died from a wide range of diseases. To be harmful to your trees, disease-causing organisms (pathogens) would have to survive in mulch and these organisms would have to move from the mulch either directly, or through the soil, to their new host - your tree. There is currently very little research on this topic.

Growing Columbine

 A versatile perennial that is now beginning to bloom is the columbine.  A columbine blossom has five petals with a tubular base and flower colors of pink, white, yellow, red, blue, maroon, or purple.  It does best when it receives a few hours of shade each day, but it will do well in full sun as long as the soil is moist.  Its bloom period lasts until late spring.  A second bloom may occur if the first flowers of the season are deadheaded when they have completed their bloom.

The seed capsules of columbine are quite attractive.  This perennial will readily reseed in the garden.  This is welcome, as columbine is a relatively short lived perennial, lasting approximately 3 to 4 years.  New seedlings can be moved and planted in different sites or you can simply enjoy the many unexpected places where you will find this seed sprouting.

The most common pest of this perennial are leaf miners, the larvae of a small brown fly.  Leaf miner damage will cause the foliage to be light colored with fine-lined markings that wind throughout the leaf.  It is quite unsightly, and if infestation is not too severe, the leaves can be removed and destroyed.  If leaf miner damage is severe, the plant can be cut to the ground.  New growth may emerge in a few weeks or the plant may simply stay dormant until the following spring.

Columbine adapts well in many garden settings.  It is a favorite of the hummingbird as its flower design easily holds the nectar for the birds to feed.   It also provides wonderful color to the spring garden.

On another note, I would like to address a few questions that readers have had concerning tulips.  It has been a great year for tulips as they like the cool spring weather which prolongs their bloom period.  As your tulips finish blooming, remember to snap off the seed heads.  This will prevent the bulb from directing its energy toward seed production.  Do not remove the leaves until they have turned yellow.  This may take four weeks, but during this time the dying leaves are feeding the bulb for next year’s flower.

If you received a potted tulip plant and wish to try growing the bulbs in your garden, it may take two to three years for a bloom to appear.  The potted bulbs should be treated the same as existing garden bulbs.  The potted plant should continue to be watered until the leaves turn yellow.  Then withhold water and cut the leaves back.  The entire pot should be put in a cool dark place until August.  At that time the bulbs should be separated and planted outdoors.  Be sure to add some bulb food or bone meal to the planting site.

If you have any gardening questions, don’t hesitate to call the Green County U.W. Extension at 328-9440.  There are many Master Gardener Volunteers that will be able to assist you.

Question: We have three maple trees on our property - I am worried about the proposal of citywide sidewalks by the City of Brodhead regarding the trees.

Trees in old established neighborhoods are an asset that the City of Brodhead must be aware of. The City of Milwaukee found out the hard way. In 1978 the city of Milwaukee had just finished a sidewalk replacement project in a section of a long-established residential area. It had hundreds of mature trees. When a storm came through in August of that year, the city lost 90 trees in that area. When the officials learned the sidewalk reconstruction projects cut the support roots of the 50- to 150-year old trees and made them susceptible to blowing over.

As a master gardener answering questions for the Wisconsin Extension Service in Green County, we have seen a lot of tree problems and heard a lot of tree myths. The largest myth is tree roots are as deep as the tree is tall. Most root systems are only 9" to 24" deep and spreading well beyond the drip line of the tree. This is why cutting big thick support roots for sidewalks increase the chance that trees will be uprooted in a windstorm. Mature softwood trees such as maples do not regrow support roots, which are most likely to be cut when sidewalks are installed.

I haven't seen the City of Brodhead specs sheets to protect trees, although Jim Kringer - Milwaukee's Forestry Inspector says it is all in the specs. Kringer outlines the tree challenges on the job in the Special Provisions section of the spec and offers contractors ways to address them. "The methods outlined in the Special Provisions are based on what has been developed by the successes we've had through work with designers, engineers, and contractors. Contractors must consider those provisions as they prepare their bids", he says.

The Special Provisions section can run as long as six pages. It also outlines hefty fines if the contractor damages any trees during the job. The penalties reflect the lost value and the cost for tree repair or replacement and are deducted from the contractor payment.

"We estimate the insured value of a 30-inch diameter elm tree in a good neighborhood at $40,000. The common council authorizes a charge of $100 per diameter inch be assessed to the contractor if the tree needs to be removed. In addition, the removal process requires two men and a boom truck, two men and a chipper, a ladder operator and backfill crew just to remove the tree. Even though a new tree planting may only cost $400, the total replacement cost charged to the contractor can be as high as $10,000," he says.

"Contractors often view the value of the tree as what it would cost to replace it. But if you can work around trees, they accentuate the value of your work. If all of the beautiful trees stay, they add value to the project".

"The Milwaukee Municipal Sewer District wants to double the number of trees in the city. The MMSD estimates that trees save $21 million a year in runoff management by absorbing 15.5 million gallons of rainwater that would have to be processed through the storm sewer system. It also estimates that the trees provide $4.4 million in pollution abatement and the equivalent of $2.1 million in cooling cost savings. That's why trees are so important to the city. Besides, they help property values tremendously," Kringer says.

If you are doing the sidewalk yourself or having the City contract it you must be aware of the problems you might encounter.

This week's questions were answered using Wisconsin Urban & Community Forests Newsletter, Volume 12, and Summer 2004.

Question: I planted some tomato plants a few weeks ago and have been covering them nightly due to the colder weather. They were doing well but now are wilting. I do water them regularly also. Can you tell me what may be the problem? Also, my tomato plant label says "determinate cultivars" on it - can you explain that? Thanks for any help! T.S., Brodhead

The Extension Office recommends that April 15th is a good time to start tomatoes inside and setting them outside May 20th . Soil temperatures are more crucial than air temperatures. The warmth of the soil is something we're not commonly aware of because we live our days surrounded by air.

When soil temperatures are below 45 degrees F (7 degrees C), roots grow much slower and have a harder time taking up water and nutrients. When the sun comes out and air temperatures begin to heat up immediately after a cool period, you may see plants wilting even though there is ample moisture in the cold soil. This is because of the slow water uptake by roots in the cool soil even though the air is rapidly warming. The plants could be wilting just because they have cold feet. Check the soil moisture before you grab for the watering can.

There is a soil thermometer with a 5-inch probe that is made to measure your soil temperatures. These run around $15-$20. Soil thermometers are a great help in discovering environmental differences and in just seeing the relationship between air temperature and the soil. You'll find you will soon get a feel for little microclimates within your garden.

According to the daily soil temperature data from the Arlington Research Farm, the soil temperature dropped from 50 degrees on April 22nd down to 44 degrees on April 29th.

Per your question regarding "determinate cultivars" - several of the newer tomato cultivars are determinate (stop elongating early) because the main stem ends in a flower cluster after about four to five clusters. Fruit of determinate cultivars tend to ripen all at one time. They are good to grow when you need large quantities at one time - such as canning.

Plants of other cultivars are indeterminate (continue to elongate), with the flower clusters giving way to continued extension of the stems. Their fruits ripen throughout the summer. These cultivars are good to grow for fresh use.

Determinate cultivars include Campbell 1327, Celebrity, Floramerica, Heinz 1350, Small Fry and Springset.

Indeterminate cultivars include Beefmaster, Better Boy, Big Boy, Early Girl, Jet Star, and Wisconsin 55.

Let Your Weeds be Your Guide

In 1879, botanist William Beal decided to see how long weed seeds could remain viable. He buried 20 jars, each filled with 1,000 seeds.  Then, every five years, he dug up a jar and planted its contents to see which kernels would still sprout.  After he died in 1924, colleagues continued the work.  In 1979, they watched some 100-year-old seeds germinate.

Add longevity to productivity (some weed plants can produce as many as 40,000 seeds), and you'll realize why, left unchecked, weeds will usually out-compete your garden vegetables for sunlight, nutrients and water.

But weeds do have their good side. Under controlled circumstances, many of them can greatly benefit our gardens. They hold top-soil, pull up water and nutrients, provide food, help control insects and more.  Several flowering weeds such as Queen Anne's lace, goldenrod, evening primrose, wild mustard, amaranth and dandelion can attract beneficial insects that prey on harmful ones.

Then too, we often don't make the association between the beautiful wildflowers that erupt around us from spring through fall and the fact that most of them bloom on otherwise ordinary weeds. We should. To do otherwise would be like admiring butterflies but hating caterpillars.

Knowledge of what weeds you have, and what conditions they prefer, can be your guide to what may need correcting with your lawn, garden, flower beds, or landscape.   Change these growing conditions, and you will go a long way to preventing future weeds without the use of excess labor or herbicides.

Moss is one of the more common "problems" we hear about with lawns.  Actually this may not be a problem, as moss gardening has become quite popular.  Unless you really want or need a lawn, if you have a healthy crop of moss, perhaps you should consider this trend!  If you do have moss, this may indicate too low mowing, low pH, excess soil moisture, or shade.  Chickweeds may also indicate too low mowing, and mouse-ear chickweed may indicate substantial shade.

If you think low mowing may be the problem, simply raise the height of mower blades.  Most lawns generally should be mowed around two inches high, and with no more than one third of the grass blade cut off at any one time.  Annual bluegrass may indicate too low mowing, but may also appear in compacted soils, or those with excess moisture.  

If you think soils are compacted, you can rent or buy an aerator for you lawn.  This is merely a series of forks or spikes which make holes in the soil, helping to break the surface and to allow water and air to enter.  You can even buy shoe attachments with spikes (similar to golf shoes, only with longer spikes) to wear while mowing, aerating the soil as you walk.

Clover species may indicate low nitrogen.  Rabbit's foot clover may indicate drought or low pH (soil acidity).  Hop clover, on the other hand, indicates possible high pH.  We actually like some clover in our lawns, as in drought it will remain green.  It is also a legume-- a type of plant whose roots take nitrogen from the air and turn it into forms plants can use.  Having clovers in your lawn means you won’t need to add as much nitrogen fertilizer.

Birdsfoot trefoil and vetch, similar to the clovers, also indicate low nitrogen.  Docks, mullein, hawkweed, sheep sorrel, and wild strawberry may indicate low pH.  Mullein may indicate low fertility in general, as can wild carrot, wild parsnip, wild radish, foxtail grass, or mallow.  In addition spurge, dry soils may be indicated by the presence of crabgrass, pigweed, yarrow, yellow wood sorrel, and curly dock.

Like a good water dowser, certain weeds can tell you what's going on underground.  This can help you when you're shopping for land, choosing a new garden site or trying to improve an existing plot.  But don't assume you've determined the ground conditions just because you've spotted one or two weeds in a category.  Look for three or four, and check their health, as well.  I've seen lamb's-quarters and sow thistle, both of which love rich soil, growing in a gravel road, but they were doing a bonsai imitation.

So before you rush out to spend money on herbicides or a lawn care service, look at your weeds more closely.  Let them be your guide on what corrective measures to take first.  You merely may need to aerate a compacted soil.

Garlic Mustard

Garlic mustard has been a problem for years in the Brodhead woodlots. It is moving into town with well established patches around the city compost area, North Town, and in our own garden – beware! Garlic mustard is a cool-season biennial herb with stalked, triangular to heart-shaped, coarsely toothed leaves that ranges from 12 to 48 inches in height as an adult flowering plant. Leaves and stems emit the distinctive odor of onion or garlic when crushed (part